Bush Taxi Shenanigans

Bush Taxi (noun)--1- a large van stripped of all its carpeting and with tight rows of poorly cushioned benches in place of seats

2- a form of transportation in the third world, equivalent to a bus or subway in the developed world

3- the best way to meet new people and fit in when visiting West Africa

Synonyms-- dangerous, pollutant, entertaining, sauna

If you want to live like the average Gambian, one of the simplest and most important things you can do is ride the bush taxi.

Every time we go out to the university we ride on the bush taxi. The university, which is in Brikama, is only 15 miles from home, but it takes between 45 minutes and an hour to get there between traffic and the nature of the bush taxi. The bush taxi is driven by one man and his helper, or apprentice, hangs out the window yelling their destination. Whenever there is someone standing alongside the road who would like to get into the bush taxi, the "apprenti" bangs on the side of the van and the driver swerves off to the shoulder so the new passenger can board.

The bush taxi is a great way to meet new people and there are always interesting experiences to be had. Last week we had the best bush taxi ride ever when the driver was on his last trip of the day and dropped us off right in front of the restaurant where we wanted to go for dinner. Sometimes we practice our Wolof by talking with the others on the bush taxi. Often there are women with very cute children on the bush taxi. Once a baby cried because she was afraid of my friend's white skin. Sometimes there are live animals on the bush taxi. Some members of our group have sat in close proximity to dead fish and live chickens, and just today I watched a hog-tied goat be roughly loaded on and off the top of the bush taxi. Yesterday I sat with my feet right on top of the engine and had to keep checking to be sure they weren't being scorched. When you set foot on a bush taxi the possibilities are endless. At just over a dollar round trip, you have to take what you can get.

Some people think the bush taxi is pretty dangerous. This is true, but there are surprisingly few accidents. I actually think the bush taxi drivers are quite skilled. They have to weave in and out of traffic all day long, and are certainly more alert than most drivers in the states (out of necessity). Relatively speaking, I am certainly safer on a bush taxi than I would be driving myself around the Gambia.

The apprenti also have a tough gig. It would be exhausting to hang out the window yelling at the top of your lungs. When the bush taxi is full and you can finally sit down, there usually isn't much of a seat left for you. Once the taxi is full you must quickly collect everyone's fares before someone gets off and you need to start advertising for a new customer to take their place. The fares vary depending on how far each passenger is going, and you have to figure out how to make change for everyone with whatever cash you have on you. It's also your responsibility to make sure that the driver stops whenever someone needs to get off. (And you do this all day long).

Riding the bush taxi is one of my favorite parts of the experience here. Even though its ridiculously hot and there is no personal space, you get to meet so many people. No one really bothers you, because if you are on the bush taxi you must just be a normal person (Peace Corps or a student), not a rich, naive tourist. Plus, its never boring (got to keep the adrenaline pumping) and I don't have to think about how expensive gas is. Not a bad deal!

Disclaimer: I enjoy people watching and am also a fan of taking the train, metro, subway, etc. Therefore not everyone may find the bush taxi experience as satisfying as I do.