Birthday Schmirthday?

Birthdays really aren't a big deal here in Africa. That's because a lot of people have no idea how old they are! There aren't the same systems for keeping track of that as there are in America, and parents have too many children to remember how old all of them are.

Nevertheless, when it came time for my birthday during the semester here in the Gambia, I decided to keep it American and celebrate, especially since it was my 21st birthday, which of course also is more of a milestone in America than pretty much anywhere else in the world, especially here where there is no age limit for consuming alcohol, and where most people don't drink, being Muslim. (There are plenty of bars and restaurants operated by Europeans, and stores owned by Christian Lebanese, though).

So what do you do for a birthday in the Gambia? For mine, we decided to eat at Luigi's, an Italian restaurant owned by an Australian man. (He also rents some pretty nice suites out, if you ever decide to visit the Gambia). Anyways, the head chef at Luigi's, Lamin, is friends with our landlord and often comes over to cook dinner for us, so we decided to support his restaurant. Since we are in with the head chef, we got the star treatment, including a full tour and free pizza. On top of this, the owner plays a segment from Planet Earth every night, projecting it onto a big screen so you can watch while you eat. Since we have been deprived of television for the past few months, this was quite a treat. The food was delicious and the waiters even sang and brought me a cake with candles, American style! The waiter who cut the cake smashed a piece into my mouth as if we were getting married, which was a little perplexing, but hey, American traditions can be confusing.

Then we met our Professor at Churchill's, a bar owned by a Frenchman. It was JulBrew night at Churchill's. JulBrew is the only brewery in the Gambia, and they are having promotional nights with contests and prizes at bars around the Gambia. It was also karaoke night, and the Brits were out in full force--Lots of British people vacation here. Anyways, one of them dedicated American Pie to us and it was overall a fun time.

When we decided to leave, we all piled into the back of our Professor's car. There were four people in the back seat and four people in the trunk. This probably doesn't sound very safe, but traveling in the Gambia in general isn't very safe, so it didn't seem like it mattered. Unfortunately, the policeman at our first checkpoint (there are roadblocks and checkpoints everywhere here), must have been feeling a little bored and potentially also thought it would be nice to collect a bribe. So he made us get out of the trunk and get a cab, then hassled Prof until he handed over some Dalasis.

Definitely one of my most memorable birthdays. Thank you, Gambia.

What I Love About the Gambia

This weekend is our halfway point for our time here in the Gambia, and I just happened to also be feeling in a particularly bubbly, positive mood, so I thought I would write a blog regarding what I love about the Gambia.

Today Sarah and I tagged along with Blair to visit her friend, a public health worker named Lamin whom she met through her volunteer work. Lamin lives in a village out past Brikama, where the university is. Lamin turned out to be a great guy, and his family and everyone in the village were very kind to us. The village life is very peaceful compared to life here, closer to the city, and the people have a different way about them. We learned a little Jola, since that is Lamin's tribe/language, met his mother, who makes beautiful baskets from palms, drank ataya (really strong, sugary green tea) with his family, and ate benechin (a traditional Gambian dish), made by his cousin (or sister, not sure, as extended family is so important here it can get hazy). Lamin is a football (soccer) coach, and we went to watch their match as well!

Okay, so besides the experiences I had today, here is what I love about the Gambia:

--The people are truly very friendly, and helpful.

--Things are pretty convenient. Want more Africell minutes? Pick them up while you're waiting in line at the traffic light. Thirsty? Buy bagged water at the bush taxi station for 8 cents.

--I learn something new practically every day.

--Getting to take public transportation. I love public transportation (in America too).

--Getting to people watch and be amazed and surprised constantly.

--The music is definitely growing on me.

--Being forced to try new things that I never expected to like, and realizing I actually do like them. (ie, I now eat oatmeal for breakfast).

--Aerobics classes with Mr. Freedman.

--Ataya.

--Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches made with taapalaapa.

--The craft market.

--The kids are adorable.

--Random people speak French at me (even though most people here speak English--must be I look French or something), and I get to practice a little.

--The smell of the laundry detergent/the women's perfume (there are very few good smells here so these must be appreciated).

--Speaking Wolof with women I meet in the market or walking home.

--Getting to walk a lot of places.

And soon, mangoes!

Bush Taxi Shenanigans

Bush Taxi (noun)--1- a large van stripped of all its carpeting and with tight rows of poorly cushioned benches in place of seats

2- a form of transportation in the third world, equivalent to a bus or subway in the developed world

3- the best way to meet new people and fit in when visiting West Africa

Synonyms-- dangerous, pollutant, entertaining, sauna

If you want to live like the average Gambian, one of the simplest and most important things you can do is ride the bush taxi.

Every time we go out to the university we ride on the bush taxi. The university, which is in Brikama, is only 15 miles from home, but it takes between 45 minutes and an hour to get there between traffic and the nature of the bush taxi. The bush taxi is driven by one man and his helper, or apprentice, hangs out the window yelling their destination. Whenever there is someone standing alongside the road who would like to get into the bush taxi, the "apprenti" bangs on the side of the van and the driver swerves off to the shoulder so the new passenger can board.

The bush taxi is a great way to meet new people and there are always interesting experiences to be had. Last week we had the best bush taxi ride ever when the driver was on his last trip of the day and dropped us off right in front of the restaurant where we wanted to go for dinner. Sometimes we practice our Wolof by talking with the others on the bush taxi. Often there are women with very cute children on the bush taxi. Once a baby cried because she was afraid of my friend's white skin. Sometimes there are live animals on the bush taxi. Some members of our group have sat in close proximity to dead fish and live chickens, and just today I watched a hog-tied goat be roughly loaded on and off the top of the bush taxi. Yesterday I sat with my feet right on top of the engine and had to keep checking to be sure they weren't being scorched. When you set foot on a bush taxi the possibilities are endless. At just over a dollar round trip, you have to take what you can get.

Some people think the bush taxi is pretty dangerous. This is true, but there are surprisingly few accidents. I actually think the bush taxi drivers are quite skilled. They have to weave in and out of traffic all day long, and are certainly more alert than most drivers in the states (out of necessity). Relatively speaking, I am certainly safer on a bush taxi than I would be driving myself around the Gambia.

The apprenti also have a tough gig. It would be exhausting to hang out the window yelling at the top of your lungs. When the bush taxi is full and you can finally sit down, there usually isn't much of a seat left for you. Once the taxi is full you must quickly collect everyone's fares before someone gets off and you need to start advertising for a new customer to take their place. The fares vary depending on how far each passenger is going, and you have to figure out how to make change for everyone with whatever cash you have on you. It's also your responsibility to make sure that the driver stops whenever someone needs to get off. (And you do this all day long).

Riding the bush taxi is one of my favorite parts of the experience here. Even though its ridiculously hot and there is no personal space, you get to meet so many people. No one really bothers you, because if you are on the bush taxi you must just be a normal person (Peace Corps or a student), not a rich, naive tourist. Plus, its never boring (got to keep the adrenaline pumping) and I don't have to think about how expensive gas is. Not a bad deal!

Disclaimer: I enjoy people watching and am also a fan of taking the train, metro, subway, etc. Therefore not everyone may find the bush taxi experience as satisfying as I do.