Saturday, June 12, 2010

This is Good Bye!

So it's clearly been awhile since my last post. About a month ago, I ran into some computer troubles, so it was a bit difficult to blog. I am now back in the States, and just wanted to check back in and reflect a little on my experience. I have been home for about a week now, and find myself missing the Gambia at random moments. So, after just one week with my feet back on American soil, here are my top five favorite things about the Gambia:


1- Bush taxis! Don't tell me you didn't see that one coming.

2- Interacting with the women in our neighborhood, and with the adorable children.

3- Our landlord, Mohammed, and the young sisters who work at the house, Haddy and Sainabou.

4- Seeing or hearing Jammeh's motorcade at random times.

5- People saying sorry to me whenever I do something clumsy.


I can't do just five! I also miss the bright colors and fun music.


And, three things I learned:


1- A new kind of patience. Everything is a little bit unpredictable. Things never happen the easy way, and sometimes the way things do happen seems downright funny. You know in Blood Diamond, TIA (this is Africa)? Well, for someone with a Western background, its a reality, and a good lesson in patience, and in trying to look at a given situation from another point of view.

2- You can't judge individuals based on where they come from or the culture they have been ingrained with.

3- Personal space is nice, but not a necessity. Same goes for hot showers and all kinds of other creature comforts.


This is all I've got so soon on the heels of coming home. This will probably be my last blog post, and I just want to thank everyone for following along with me this semester!

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Sierra Leone Highlights

I spent the past few days in Sierra Leone with a few other students on the trip. Traveling around the African continent isn't exactly like traveling around Europe, but we found reasonably priced tickets and made friends with the guys at the Sierra Leonian consulate, and off we went. Here are the highlights:

1- Driving around Freetown for two days in search of a waterfall and a national park. The first day, our taxi driver, Alhaji, was well-intentioned but didn't speak English or know where he was going. The second day our taxi driver, Abu, didn't like us any more than we liked him, probably did not have a driver's license, and didn't speak English or know where he was going.

2- Trying to follow the gist of conversations in Creole, which is a mixture of English, Portugese, French and African languages.

3- Staying on the Banana Islands, where we hiked in the rain forest, swam on secluded beaches, and ate fresh-caught fish and locally grown papaya.

4- Sleeping at a YMCA hostel. It really is fun to stay at the YMCA.

5- Realizing that its unacceptable to generalize about "African" traditions, "African" issues, or "African" culture. Africa is a huge and very diverse continent. Even in Sierra Leone, only about an hour plane ride from the Gambia, there are countless differences!

It was a fabulous trip, full of adventures, and made me want to travel all over the African continent!

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Girl Talk

I'm pretty shameless in admitting that I'm a big feminist. So here I am in a developing country where women are often viewed as second-class citizens, and you can bet that I see a lot of things that get me more than a little fired up (though I try to keep my mouth shut the majority of the time). As a white women, though men often treat me like a one-way ticket to America, I am generally not treated as though I am stupid or my thoughts don't matter, or with complete disrespect. For the Gambian women, though, its not the same story.


I talked a little about Islam in another entry. There is a relative abundance of religious tolerance in the Gambia. Most Muslim women just wear headscarves, and some women choose not to cover their heads at all, although these women often face reproaches from Muslim men. Still, anytime you go to the market or some similar, busy place, you are likely to see at least a couple of women in Burkas, veiled in black with only their eyes showing.


Today we toured an orphanage. The man who gave our tour told us that, upon reaching the age of fourteen, the young boys are sent to a youth camp, but the young girls stay at the orphanage and live in a separate house where they learn to cook and clean. When we asked why the girls are treated differently, he said that otherwise no one would want them as a wife. I just found it so sad that this was the most important goal in raising these girls.


Today we visited an orphanage where the assistant director assured us that all of the children receive education through secondary school. To try to reach the Millenium Development Goals, the Gambia is working hard to achieve universal primary education. In many families, if they cannot afford to send all of the children to school, only the boys will be educated. For this reason, Jammeh has instated a program in which he will pay for girls to attend school if their families cannot afford it. This phenomenon is very important, because it shows two things. First of all, the government is recognizing that, in order to achieve development, women need to be equal in Gambian society. Secondly, while this is beginning to be enforced on an institutional level, on a community and familial level women are still subservient.


Why is promoting women's rights such an important part of development? Its actually pretty simple. When women are empowered, they become responsible citizens who demand accountability from the government, people who are educated enough to read the newspaper, to think for themselves, and to vote responsibly. To empower women, all you have to do is educate them. Educate women on the same level as men, and they will enter into the workforce. You will have a more productive population. More people in the workforce equals more productivity, its relatively simple economics! These women will have economic power, which gives them autonomy from their husbands and fathers and thereby further empowers futures generations. Since they are more educated, these women will have fewer children - the fertility rate will fall. The women will exercise control over their own reproductive health and will choose to work rather than to have many children. This means that there will be more resources to spend on each child, and more money flowing back into the economy - it breaks the endless cycle of poverty. Finally, empowering women is crucial because they invest in the future of the nation. Women use the money they make to educate their children and to make sure they are healthy, whereas men are less likely to invest their money in these ways.


My development professor said that development is natural, that no one would put their own hand in scalding hot water. So I just want to know why any country would choose to treat half of their population in such a self-defeating manner?

Monday, April 19, 2010

Kabekel

Kabekel is a village about an hour and a half trip from our home near Banjul, located out past Brikama, and therefore considered rural. (Anything between Banjul and Brikama is considered to be in the city.) My friend Blair is volunteering at a public health organization, and made friends with a young man named Lamin who lives in Kabekel. We visited him last month and watched his football team play, met his famiy and had lunch. He invited us back on Saturday to take part in a big celebration.


Lamin belongs to the Jola, one of the less common ethnic groups in the Gambia, and the festival was a coming-of-age ceremony for young girls, most of them about eight years old. The girls had spent the last three weeks out in the bush with female elders, including Lamin's mother, learning about Jola tradition. Saturday the girls were coming back out of the bush to rejoin the community, and food, dancing and music were planned in celebration.


Blair, myself and Sarah made the journey out to Kabekel for the day. We spent the day eating, drinking ataya, learning to cook the Gambian way, holding people's babies and meeting one person after another. We also fought against the red ants who kept falling from the mango trees and trying to bite us, and gave a new football to Lamin's team, which they were very excited about. I especially enjoyed learning to cook. It isn't often that we get the opportunity to interact so much with Gambian women, and I love cooking. I learned to sift couscous, prepare onions for benechin with a mortar and pestle, and stir a huge pot of rice over an open fire. Soon before we had to head home, the girls came out of the bush. We followed everyone down to the village square, where there were lots of people, music and dancing! Lamin told us that the celebration would continue well into the night, and that the procession would take every girl back to her own compound, where her family would gather for a meal.


The ceremony was very interesting. We were obviously outsiders, as the only toubaubs in a huge Jola community gathering, but everyone was very welcoming and Lamin was very helpful and patient about answering our questions. There is definitely a difference, in general, between the interactions I have with Gambians here in the city and the more relaxed way of life out in the villages. It was a great learning experience and a fun day, and for anyone else studying in the Gambia or someplace similar, I would encourage them to embrace these sorts of opportunities.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Be Kind to Mankind

I saw this written on the front of a bush taxi, on the way home from visiting my friend Ayisha today. Ayisha is a UTG classmate, a Nigerian living in the Gambia, and she invited us out to her family compound for the afternoon.

On the ride to her compound we had to stop in the middle of the road because there was a throng of people making their way down it. Last time this happened to us, we had found ourselves in the middle of a funeral procession, but this time they were celebrating...something. We couldn't quite figure out the whole deal, but it had something to do with juju, and everyone was singing and playing instruments. Juju is supernatural power associated with witchcraft. You can read more about it here:

http://en.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enwiki/4155771

Anyways, when we got to Ayisha's compound, we met her family, watched MTV with Arabic subtitles on her flat screen television, and ate a nice lunch. It is very important to take good care of your house guests here. Ayisha didn't even sit down to visit with us until she was convinced we were full and hydrated. She made us two dishes and the best baobab juice I have had here. (Baobab juice is a smoothie-like juice drink, made by boiling the baobab, a kind of sour fruit.)

After lunch, we went around and met Ayisha's family. A family compound is where a large extended family lives together. Most Gambians live in large family compounds, especially out in the villages. All of Ayisha's father's brothers live in this compound with their two wives and all their children, and Ayisha considers all of her cousins as brothers and sisters. (It is a patriarchal, polygamous system.) It was very important for us to go into each house, sit down for a minute, and say hello to everyone.

After this we walked down to the market and Ayisha took us to the Gambian equivalent of FYE. Sarah and I have each developed a "favorite" song that we hear on the radio and walking down the street, so we asked the men who work there for a CD with these songs and whatever other Gambian music they would like to put on it. The young men at the shop made a playlist on their computer and burned us two copies of the CD, for 50 Dalasis (2 Dollars) each. I also bought the entire fifth season of Friends for the same price. -Not bad!

To hear my new favorite song, check out this link. It's actually by two Nigerian groups called Bracket and P Square, and the song is called "Yori Yori," which, as Ayisha explained to me, is a sort of slang that basically means the same thing as "you make my heart pitter patter" or "you give me butterflies in my stomach." Anyways, its catchy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj1YP2Ydoys

I hope this video is alright. I can't get things to stream here, so I didn't watch it.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

All Things Water

Water is a big deal here, and its not just because I live three miles from the beach. No, there's a lot more to it than that. There is, for example, the fact that there is a moat forming outside of our compound. Soon we are going to have to hire a donkey that we can ride across anytime we need to go anywhere. Why is this moat happening? Well, it turns out that one of the water supply lines in our neighborhood broke. The piping here is rubber, not steel, so it doesn't rust, but its pretty close to the surface of the ground, so it breaks often. Evidently, someone is going to come along and patch it up sometime soonish. But not replace it.

I'm not personally too worried about it though, because I don't drink tap water. It's kind of like Mexico that way here.

So the other thing people like to use water for is showering. The thing in the Gambia is, your showers tend to be on the cold side. And since the Gambia was colonized by the British, they also tend to be of the variety where the shower head is on a hose rather than attached to the wall. I'm really not sure what the Europeans were thinking.

This weekend I went on a little trek upriver. I live pretty close to the coast, and the city, but sometimes we venture out into the more rural areas. One thing you gain a whole new appreciation for, while in Africa, is indoor plumbing. In case you don't believe me, I'm serious. Traveling around here requires self-imposed dehydration, because if there's one thing you don't want to go trying out in third world countries, its gas station bathrooms. (We tried it. Trust me.)

We stayed at a pretty nifty camp at our trek upriver to Janjangbury. On the last morning, however, we all figured out that the water that we were showering and brushing our teeth in came (definitely unfiltered) out of the Gambia River. That would be all fine and good (we were camping, after all), except we established that our toilets also flushed to the same location.

Mmmmm.

But truly, this experience is giving me a whole new appreciation for infrastructure and plumbers. Its also fairly easy for me to sit here whining in my house that has running water and a big cooler of filtered water to drink, near the city where it probably wouldn't hurt me much if I decided to start drinking tap water anyways. There are plenty of Gambians out in the villages who pump and haul unsafe water from their wells, one bucket at a time. That, my friend, is a serious problem.